From Birth to Butcher

written by

MoSo Farm

posted on

December 27, 2021

“There are two spiritual dangers in not owning a farm. One is the danger of supposing that breakfast comes from the grocery, and the other that heat comes from the furnace.”

- Aldo Leopold, A Sand County Almanac

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The cycle has come full circle. My first set of calves that I got in March 2020, for whom I hauled fresh water, broke solid ice on water tanks during cold mornings, scratched heads, taught to respect the electric fence, brought to fresh pasture almost daily, and cared for over 21 months — have gone to the butcher. Many people have asked about my feelings surrounding this sober event. I have felt so many varying emotions over the past couple weeks. Here are some of them…

  • Pride in how smoothly and stress-free everything went when sorting the cattle in the barn, loading them into the trailer, and driving them to the butcher. I’ve been planning for this day for almost two years. And everything came off without a hitch.
  • Sadness that I won’t be seeing these same steers and heifers around the farm whom I’ve come to know and who have taught me a lot. Teary in the days leading up to butcher.
  • Surprise at my happiness on butcher day, how quick and easy everything went, what a good life I provided for these beeves, how giddy I felt to be accomplishing this first major goal.
  • Mixed emotions because I believe in eating meat from animals that have a good life and improve the land through grazing. I believe in nature’s food system and my place in it. I believe in being this close to my food. But it also means acknowledging death and my hand in bringing about that death.

During this time, I yearned to hear the perspectives of other livestock producers. It is one thing to be a conscientious consumer, to purchase good meat from the store in a package, to consider one’s meat-eating choice before digging in. It is another thing to raise your own meat for two years, to care for the animals, and then to schedule their death and bring them to it. So I turned to the internet and found this beautiful essay by Katherine Dunn called “Farm Confessional: What Butchering Your Animals Really Feels Like.” Her words ring so true…

“It will always be uncomfortable, just like taking a dying animal to be euthanized: You know, and they don’t. You question your motives, as you should; or at least I do, year in and year out. But I come back to the same decision each time: I am part of nature, not above it. I choose to be within the food chain, not to stand outside of it. I think nature has given me a pretty good path to follow, just like it gave all the other creatures a path to follow to survive.”

My aim is to be transparent. To give a behind-the-scenes look at the intimate and raw experience of raising livestock. The clarity can be uncomfortable, for good reason I think. But I believe it’s important to look our food in the eye. To treat it well. To give thanks.

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Beef orders available for June

My next batch of beef will be available in late June 2022. I’m taking orders now and already have two quarters sold. First come, first served!

Curious to learn more about buying good meat? The Good Meat Breakdown has lots of resources for consumers on how to find it, buy it, store it, and cook it.

MoSo Jewelry is fully stocked

My MoSo Jewelry Etsy shop has 21 wood and pawpaw earrings currently listed. Free shipping on orders over $35. Feel free to email me with requests! I’m currently creating a few pairs by request and I’m happy to hear what people would like to see.

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What I’m reading…

Tinkers by Paul Harding | A novel. “An old man lies dying. Propped up in his living room and surrounded by his children and grandchildren, George Washington Crosby drifts in and out of consciousness, back to the wonder and pain of his impoverished childhood in Maine.”

Farm Confessional: What Butchering Your Animals Really Feels Like by Katherine Dunn | Article in Modern Farmer. “I hang white prayer flags in the stall, and the night before, I sit for a very short time and thank them for their good work and sacrifice."

After a Year-Long Strike, Indian Farmers Score a Big Win by Shiney Varghese | “The country's prime minister has agreed to roll back laws that threatened to corporatize agriculture, jeopardizing the food security of more than 800 million people and further enriching the ultra-rich.”

What I’m listening to…

Check out my Winter Spotify playlist. These are the tunes accompanying me as I wrap presents, make earrings, and drive to the butcher.

More from the blog

Expanding to Greener Pastures

We’ve got some exciting news to share! We are transitioning into being the new owners of the Shew Family Farm. This winter, we have been discussing the possibilities of a farm transition — as Pete & Marjie sought to create a plan for retirement, in hopes that their farm could be stewarded in a similar manner, and as we sought to expand our beef operation on our current limited land base. With guidance from our Uncle Jon Sowash, we devised a land contract to purchase the farm over the next many years in installments. In December, we also purchased the Shew’s brood cows and young calves. It’s no small feat to pass a farm from one generation to the next, particularly when it’s not to children. According to the American Farmland Trust, 2,000 acres of farmland are lost to non-agricultural uses every day. This has been a full circle moment, as Pete has been a mentor to us for several years. When I first started our farm in 2020, I cold-called him to see if I could visit and learn from him. I remember visiting one day to learn about handling cattle and to “help” as Pete brought a few steers down to the barn and loaded them into the trailer for the butcher. Over lunch, Marjie shared how they weren’t sure who would take over the farm when they retired and remarked, “maybe you’ll buy this place one day!” My eyes grew wide and I laughed, thinking to myself — me?! I have no idea how to farm. What does this mean for us and the Shews? We will continue to live and farm here in Athens County where we’ll run our pastured pork operation. During the growing season, we will run the cattle at the Shew farm where we’ll have the space to increase the herd size and maintain a breeding operation for the first time. As winter approaches, we will bring the herd back to our Athens farm to graze stockpiled forages — reducing the amount of hay we need to feed and making winter chores easier. Pete & Marjie will continue living in their home. They will be raising their butcher-ready steers and selling beef at the Athens Farmers Market this season before retiring in the fall. We are grateful that they will be staying on the property and advising us, as we get to know the farm and continue to learn as first-generation farmers. How does this enable us to raise our own calves? Until now, we have been purchasing weaned calves in the spring from other grass-fed farms and raising them to butcher weight. But we are getting squeezed by the cattle market, making it difficult to run a profitable enterprise. In spring 2021, we were purchasing calves for $1.62/lb or $680 for a 420 lb animal. Right now, the average price for the same calves is $5.25/lb or $2,205. People have often asked us — why don’t we raise our own calves? But on just 50 acres of pasture that we lease from family, we don’t have the space to maintain a herd of brood cows without having to really reduce our production. After all, a mama cow needs about 2 acres of pasture to live, so we’d have to free up space by reducing the number of steers we raise for beef. Last year we tried to expand our land base by leasing smaller, noncontiguous land near us. This involved hauling cattle to a different property every month or so, trucking water, and setting up temporary fencing. This opportunity to expand to the Shew property’s 115 acres of pasture means we can now run a “birth to butcher” operation in one centralized place. Better soils mean more beef! This also means we can increase beef production, as the soils have been so improved by the Shew’s managed grazing that they can support nearly twice the number of animals per acre as our Athens pastures. Pete told us that when they moved there in 1984, the organic matter of their soils was around 2-3%. In 2024, soil samples showed organic matter ranging from 4-6%! That is incredible improvement in soil health in a short amount of time. These productive soils will allow us to sustainably meet the growing demand for our grass-fed beef. More than anything, we are excited about the opportunity to invest in soils that have been improved for 42 years by sustainable grazing practices. That’s the best farm insurance policy we could ask for. We are honored to carry on the legacy of Pete & Marjie. We’ve got big Shews to fill.

The word that best defines 2025...

is community. And our community shows up in the pages of our newly released 2025 Annual Report — from photos of our events to this year’s Customers of the Year to our families who support our farming endeavors wholeheartedly.

Welcoming quiet & new life in the New Year

We’ve been absent from your inbox lately as the December holidays brought a flurry of travel and events to many of our lives. There’s something wonderful about January’s contrast to December, when the decorations come down and the weather gets colder and the world seems to stand a little more still. We are embracing this quieter pace of life, in a literal and figurative sense.