New Beginnings In Grass-Fed Beef

written by

MoSo Farm

posted on

December 22, 2020

"There is always the possibility of a new third act." - Arthur Miller

Thanks for joining me on my cattle-raising journey! In these newsletters, I hope to share slices of life as a beginning farmer — beef updates, photos, thoughts on our food system, poetry, failures and successes.

But first…my grandma. Nana passed away in May and she has been in my mind and heart for the past many months. She surfaces in my thoughts at random, when sorting through her recipe box for her classic mulligatawny soup, when looking for a book of poetry and finding her well-loved copy, or when writing about my new venture into farming.

In middle school, I interviewed Nana and wrote a play about her life story for an assignment. She framed her life with the quote by Arthur Miller above. And while I am much younger than her at the time, with many acts hopefully ahead of me, I find myself in a new act.

Having moved back to Ohio after seven years in Minnesota, I am now in a completely different sphere — from urban to rural, from living 13 hours away from family to right across the driveway, from teaching children to working with experienced farmers. While in MN, I spent a lot of time working on urban and rural farms, as well as teaching in the schools as a food educator. But the prospect of moving home and raising food on my family’s land in Athens was the first time I’d considered spearheading my own farming endeavors.

In March I took the plunge and purchased eight Lowline Angus calves. Given my Creative Writing major, it may come as a surprise that I’ve decided to start with cattle. It’s true that I have a more extensive vocabulary in the mechanics of poetry than in the mechanics of fencing. But I’ve begun with cattle for two reasons: 1) my family has raised small herds of cattle before and 2) I believe in the regenerative impacts of properly-managed herd animals. I am privileged to be a beginning farmer with access to land and pieces of startup infrastructure. My concern for the changing climate motivates me to do something physical to combat global warming with visible results on the land.

And I have learned SO much over the past nine months! I am googling terms I never knew I’d need to know. I am chasing escape artist calves that walk through fencing like it’s butter. I am chopping frozen water in the livestock tanks on cold mornings. And I am inching my way towards the distant vision I have for this piece of land, for the revitalization of family farms, and for a future in which we bring our society into equilibrium with the natural world.

We have all found ourselves in new spheres as COVID-19 changed our collective sense of normal. So I’m holding onto Arthur Miller’s ever-present possibility of a new third act. I hope you can find some solace in the unwritten future too.

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More from the blog

Expanding to Greener Pastures

We’ve got some exciting news to share! We are transitioning into being the new owners of the Shew Family Farm. This winter, we have been discussing the possibilities of a farm transition — as Pete & Marjie sought to create a plan for retirement, in hopes that their farm could be stewarded in a similar manner, and as we sought to expand our beef operation on our current limited land base. With guidance from our Uncle Jon Sowash, we devised a land contract to purchase the farm over the next many years in installments. In December, we also purchased the Shew’s brood cows and young calves. It’s no small feat to pass a farm from one generation to the next, particularly when it’s not to children. According to the American Farmland Trust, 2,000 acres of farmland are lost to non-agricultural uses every day. This has been a full circle moment, as Pete has been a mentor to us for several years. When I first started our farm in 2020, I cold-called him to see if I could visit and learn from him. I remember visiting one day to learn about handling cattle and to “help” as Pete brought a few steers down to the barn and loaded them into the trailer for the butcher. Over lunch, Marjie shared how they weren’t sure who would take over the farm when they retired and remarked, “maybe you’ll buy this place one day!” My eyes grew wide and I laughed, thinking to myself — me?! I have no idea how to farm. What does this mean for us and the Shews? We will continue to live and farm here in Athens County where we’ll run our pastured pork operation. During the growing season, we will run the cattle at the Shew farm where we’ll have the space to increase the herd size and maintain a breeding operation for the first time. As winter approaches, we will bring the herd back to our Athens farm to graze stockpiled forages — reducing the amount of hay we need to feed and making winter chores easier. Pete & Marjie will continue living in their home. They will be raising their butcher-ready steers and selling beef at the Athens Farmers Market this season before retiring in the fall. We are grateful that they will be staying on the property and advising us, as we get to know the farm and continue to learn as first-generation farmers. How does this enable us to raise our own calves? Until now, we have been purchasing weaned calves in the spring from other grass-fed farms and raising them to butcher weight. But we are getting squeezed by the cattle market, making it difficult to run a profitable enterprise. In spring 2021, we were purchasing calves for $1.62/lb or $680 for a 420 lb animal. Right now, the average price for the same calves is $5.25/lb or $2,205. People have often asked us — why don’t we raise our own calves? But on just 50 acres of pasture that we lease from family, we don’t have the space to maintain a herd of brood cows without having to really reduce our production. After all, a mama cow needs about 2 acres of pasture to live, so we’d have to free up space by reducing the number of steers we raise for beef. Last year we tried to expand our land base by leasing smaller, noncontiguous land near us. This involved hauling cattle to a different property every month or so, trucking water, and setting up temporary fencing. This opportunity to expand to the Shew property’s 115 acres of pasture means we can now run a “birth to butcher” operation in one centralized place. Better soils mean more beef! This also means we can increase beef production, as the soils have been so improved by the Shew’s managed grazing that they can support nearly twice the number of animals per acre as our Athens pastures. Pete told us that when they moved there in 1984, the organic matter of their soils was around 2-3%. In 2024, soil samples showed organic matter ranging from 4-6%! That is incredible improvement in soil health in a short amount of time. These productive soils will allow us to sustainably meet the growing demand for our grass-fed beef. More than anything, we are excited about the opportunity to invest in soils that have been improved for 42 years by sustainable grazing practices. That’s the best farm insurance policy we could ask for. We are honored to carry on the legacy of Pete & Marjie. We’ve got big Shews to fill.

The word that best defines 2025...

is community. And our community shows up in the pages of our newly released 2025 Annual Report — from photos of our events to this year’s Customers of the Year to our families who support our farming endeavors wholeheartedly.

Welcoming quiet & new life in the New Year

We’ve been absent from your inbox lately as the December holidays brought a flurry of travel and events to many of our lives. There’s something wonderful about January’s contrast to December, when the decorations come down and the weather gets colder and the world seems to stand a little more still. We are embracing this quieter pace of life, in a literal and figurative sense.