Thoughts & Gratitudes This November

written by

MoSo Farm

posted on

November 4, 2021

“The lack of beginning farmers in the United States is bordering on a crisis.” -  Jesse Frost in Civil Eats article
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Life is full! As November arrives, I’m reminding myself of the blessings of a busy life. The days pass quickly, but they are filled with good things – moving the cows, hauling water, preparing for winter, helping to flip my boyfriend’s house, putting the garden to rest, making jewelry. And of course, working at Rural Action to build a strong local food economy. As Rural Action’s Sustainable Agriculture Program Manager, I get the opportunity to step back from the minutiae of starting up my little farm in order to see the bigger “food systems” picture in southeast Ohio, the Appalachian region, the United States, the world.

This week I dove into an article that illuminated some stark facts about the state of farming in the US…

  • The average age of a farmer is 57 years old.
  • The average age of a beginning farmer is just a decade younger at 46 years.
  • 3.2% of US farms account for 51% of the value of agricultural production.
  • On average, a beginning farmer makes 25% of their income from farming.

What does this mean? Farmers are aging out of the profession (though retirement is often unattainable) and young people aren’t taking up the work at the same rate. Over the past few decades, the forces of corporatization and consolidation have pushed prices so low that small farmers can’t make it. For example, watch this short video about how just four companies control the beef industry. On average, a beginning farmer doesn’t turn a profit for the first three years. Add to that the large capital investment that farmers must make to start an operation (seeds, tractor, land, livestock) and the immense amount of debt plaguing young people. It’s not hard to see why beginning farmers are few and far between.

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When I feel disheartened by the harsh statistics stacked against beginning farmers, I often come back to Barbara Kingsolver’s words in Letters to a Young Farmer

“When we told our youth that farming was a lowly aim compared with becoming teachers, doctors, or lawyers, what were we thinking? We need teachers for just a few of life’s decades. If we’re lucky, we’ll see a doctor only a few times a year, and a lawyer even less. But we need farmers every single day of our lives, beginning to end, no exceptions. We forgot about that for a while, and the price was immense. Slowly, we’re coming back to our senses. Be patient with us. We need you.”

All of this to say 1) I am grateful for your support. As a newsletter reader or beef eater or friend. 2) If you don’t live near me, find another beginning farmer to support.

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Here’s a quick look at some things happening around the farm this fall:

  • Getting enough hay to last the winter for 16 cattle and 4 horses, an annual guessing game
  • Stockpiling grass for winter grazing – taking the cattle off certain pastures to let the grass rest and grow longer so they can graze it into winter
  • Taking soil tests to show me how my soils are improving each year
  • Creating a corral system that makes loading the cattle into the trailer easy and stress-free come butcher day
  • Harvesting sweet potatoes and carrots, planting garlic and winter rye
  • Pressing apples with my cider press from the Chesterhill Produce Auction!

Finally, I am only able to pull all of this off because of my family. This August I was able to take three weeks off to explore the intermountain West. It was an incredible trip filled with backpacking, mountain biking, hot springing, and horse riding in Wyoming, Idaho, and Montana. The only reason I could leave the farm for this amount of time was my parents. They watched my nutty dog and cared for the chickens and cows and garden. They are the best farmhands.

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Limited beef orders available…

I’m taking orders for bulk beef, which will be available this January. There are a few more quarters, halves, and wholes available, so email me to secure yours! First come, first served. Below is an estimate of pounds of packaged beef for each size.

Quarter: 62-82 lbs
Half: 125-163 lbs
Whole: 250-325 lbs

Curious to learn more about buying good meat? The Good Meat Breakdown has lots of resources for consumers on how to find it, buy it, store it, and cook it.

What I’m reading…

Becoming (and Remaining) a Farmer is Hard by Jesse Frost | “Education and training can help new farmers succeed, but new research points to systemic challenges that also need to be addressed.”

Rural America, mostly white, is becoming more diverse by Chuck Abbott | “The rural America of the future will be increasingly diverse and not as politically conservative as many assume…”

What I’m listening to…

Get cozy with my Fall Spotify playlist. Make yourself a hot apple cider and curl up with these tunes.

The History of Our Food System: What’s Wrong and How to Fix It | Episode from the podcast, the Doctor’s Farmacy. “What do wealth inequality, chronic disease, climate change, and the industrialization of agriculture all have in common? The answer is food, and more specifically our food system.”

More from the blog

Expanding to Greener Pastures

We’ve got some exciting news to share! We are transitioning into being the new owners of the Shew Family Farm. This winter, we have been discussing the possibilities of a farm transition — as Pete & Marjie sought to create a plan for retirement, in hopes that their farm could be stewarded in a similar manner, and as we sought to expand our beef operation on our current limited land base. With guidance from our Uncle Jon Sowash, we devised a land contract to purchase the farm over the next many years in installments. In December, we also purchased the Shew’s brood cows and young calves. It’s no small feat to pass a farm from one generation to the next, particularly when it’s not to children. According to the American Farmland Trust, 2,000 acres of farmland are lost to non-agricultural uses every day. This has been a full circle moment, as Pete has been a mentor to us for several years. When I first started our farm in 2020, I cold-called him to see if I could visit and learn from him. I remember visiting one day to learn about handling cattle and to “help” as Pete brought a few steers down to the barn and loaded them into the trailer for the butcher. Over lunch, Marjie shared how they weren’t sure who would take over the farm when they retired and remarked, “maybe you’ll buy this place one day!” My eyes grew wide and I laughed, thinking to myself — me?! I have no idea how to farm. What does this mean for us and the Shews? We will continue to live and farm here in Athens County where we’ll run our pastured pork operation. During the growing season, we will run the cattle at the Shew farm where we’ll have the space to increase the herd size and maintain a breeding operation for the first time. As winter approaches, we will bring the herd back to our Athens farm to graze stockpiled forages — reducing the amount of hay we need to feed and making winter chores easier. Pete & Marjie will continue living in their home. They will be raising their butcher-ready steers and selling beef at the Athens Farmers Market this season before retiring in the fall. We are grateful that they will be staying on the property and advising us, as we get to know the farm and continue to learn as first-generation farmers. How does this enable us to raise our own calves? Until now, we have been purchasing weaned calves in the spring from other grass-fed farms and raising them to butcher weight. But we are getting squeezed by the cattle market, making it difficult to run a profitable enterprise. In spring 2021, we were purchasing calves for $1.62/lb or $680 for a 420 lb animal. Right now, the average price for the same calves is $5.25/lb or $2,205. People have often asked us — why don’t we raise our own calves? But on just 50 acres of pasture that we lease from family, we don’t have the space to maintain a herd of brood cows without having to really reduce our production. After all, a mama cow needs about 2 acres of pasture to live, so we’d have to free up space by reducing the number of steers we raise for beef. Last year we tried to expand our land base by leasing smaller, noncontiguous land near us. This involved hauling cattle to a different property every month or so, trucking water, and setting up temporary fencing. This opportunity to expand to the Shew property’s 115 acres of pasture means we can now run a “birth to butcher” operation in one centralized place. Better soils mean more beef! This also means we can increase beef production, as the soils have been so improved by the Shew’s managed grazing that they can support nearly twice the number of animals per acre as our Athens pastures. Pete told us that when they moved there in 1984, the organic matter of their soils was around 2-3%. In 2024, soil samples showed organic matter ranging from 4-6%! That is incredible improvement in soil health in a short amount of time. These productive soils will allow us to sustainably meet the growing demand for our grass-fed beef. More than anything, we are excited about the opportunity to invest in soils that have been improved for 42 years by sustainable grazing practices. That’s the best farm insurance policy we could ask for. We are honored to carry on the legacy of Pete & Marjie. We’ve got big Shews to fill.

The word that best defines 2025...

is community. And our community shows up in the pages of our newly released 2025 Annual Report — from photos of our events to this year’s Customers of the Year to our families who support our farming endeavors wholeheartedly.

Welcoming quiet & new life in the New Year

We’ve been absent from your inbox lately as the December holidays brought a flurry of travel and events to many of our lives. There’s something wonderful about January’s contrast to December, when the decorations come down and the weather gets colder and the world seems to stand a little more still. We are embracing this quieter pace of life, in a literal and figurative sense.