Well-Loved Meat

written by

MoSo Farm

posted on

January 9, 2023

“I come back to the same decision each time: I am part of nature, not above it. I choose to be within the food chain, not to stand outside of it. I think nature has given me a pretty good path to follow, just like it gave all the other creatures a path to follow to survive.” - Katherine Dunn
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Over the last month and a half, we have taken 8 animals to the butcher and supplied beef to 19 customers! Once or twice per year, we align all of our butcher dates and have a flurry of activity as we get thousands of pounds of beef to people’s freezers. As a small startup farm, we have started by selling “freezer beef” that comes in quarters, halves, or wholes so that all parts of the animal are purchased and we can move large quantities at once. This enables us to sell meat without commercial freezer space. As we consider ways to expand, we are looking to increase our freezer storage and to sell smaller bundles of meat. We hope this will allow customers who don’t have chest freezers or who want a smaller amount of meat to access our products. Stay tuned for when we start offering $100-$200 beef bundles!

I’ve been thinking about the dozens of labels used to define food — organic, natural, non-GMO, free range, grass-fed, sustainable, pasture-raised, certified humane, etc. While these terms can often be confusing (sometimes intentionally so), they attempt to tell a consumer how a product was raised. And as I’ve often said, I wish people focused less on what they should eat and more on how their food is raised. This is why the phrase that I feel best describes our products is “well-loved meat.” Because this phrase takes care of all the others.

An animal that is well-loved has access to fresh water and shade. A steer that is well-loved gets to eat what he has evolved to eat — grass. A cow that is well-loved is humanely handled in safe and stress-free facilities. An animal that is well-loved lives in a chemical-free environment on green pastures with room to roam.

To some, the thought of loving an animal raised for meat is unsettling. But as a consumer, I settle for no less. I want my food to have lived an easy, content, well cared for life. As I wrote about in the From Birth to Butcher newsletter, the experience of bringing animals to the butcher is an emotional one. As it should be. I believe that to eat meat, I must recognize the life given to sustain me. To consume conscientiously, I must ensure that it was a life well-loved.

Below is a poem I wrote after returning from the butcher earlier in October…

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Tender

My heart
expecting what this day
will deliver.

The steer
beneath my hand
cautious of the bright light to which
I deliver him.

Today,
its everyday
holiness.

We sip dark coffee
in the barn
on this last crisp morning
when we’ll greet these animals.

There are rituals to be had.
A certain clank of the steel trailer door must ring
out against the murky hills,
our hushed voices must usher these three
brown-eyed beeves out of their pens,
a swift movement of hands is needed
to ensure a smooth passage.

Once they are loaded
we drive the hour to the butcher
to repeat the ritual in reverse.
Walk beside the cattle as they
approach their final hours,
make sure they have fresh bedding,
clean water,
a soft place to lie down.

The ride home is quiet.

Mustn’t I love who sustains me?

What I’m reading…

Love Medicine | Book by Louise Erdrich | Set on and around a North Dakota Ojibwe reservation, Love Medicine is the epic story about the intertwined fates of two families: the Kashpaws and the Lamartines.

What I’m listening to…

My Winter playlist has been keeping me company on these dark days.

I recently re-learned about the Danish word “hygge” which has no exact translation but loosely means “cosiness and surrounding yourself with the things that make life good, like friendship, laughter and security, as well as more concrete things like warmth, light, seasonal food and drink.” These songs have been bringing me hygge. I hope you’re finding some hygge in your days too.

More from the blog

Expanding to Greener Pastures

We’ve got some exciting news to share! We are transitioning into being the new owners of the Shew Family Farm. This winter, we have been discussing the possibilities of a farm transition — as Pete & Marjie sought to create a plan for retirement, in hopes that their farm could be stewarded in a similar manner, and as we sought to expand our beef operation on our current limited land base. With guidance from our Uncle Jon Sowash, we devised a land contract to purchase the farm over the next many years in installments. In December, we also purchased the Shew’s brood cows and young calves. It’s no small feat to pass a farm from one generation to the next, particularly when it’s not to children. According to the American Farmland Trust, 2,000 acres of farmland are lost to non-agricultural uses every day. This has been a full circle moment, as Pete has been a mentor to us for several years. When I first started our farm in 2020, I cold-called him to see if I could visit and learn from him. I remember visiting one day to learn about handling cattle and to “help” as Pete brought a few steers down to the barn and loaded them into the trailer for the butcher. Over lunch, Marjie shared how they weren’t sure who would take over the farm when they retired and remarked, “maybe you’ll buy this place one day!” My eyes grew wide and I laughed, thinking to myself — me?! I have no idea how to farm. What does this mean for us and the Shews? We will continue to live and farm here in Athens County where we’ll run our pastured pork operation. During the growing season, we will run the cattle at the Shew farm where we’ll have the space to increase the herd size and maintain a breeding operation for the first time. As winter approaches, we will bring the herd back to our Athens farm to graze stockpiled forages — reducing the amount of hay we need to feed and making winter chores easier. Pete & Marjie will continue living in their home. They will be raising their butcher-ready steers and selling beef at the Athens Farmers Market this season before retiring in the fall. We are grateful that they will be staying on the property and advising us, as we get to know the farm and continue to learn as first-generation farmers. How does this enable us to raise our own calves? Until now, we have been purchasing weaned calves in the spring from other grass-fed farms and raising them to butcher weight. But we are getting squeezed by the cattle market, making it difficult to run a profitable enterprise. In spring 2021, we were purchasing calves for $1.62/lb or $680 for a 420 lb animal. Right now, the average price for the same calves is $5.25/lb or $2,205. People have often asked us — why don’t we raise our own calves? But on just 50 acres of pasture that we lease from family, we don’t have the space to maintain a herd of brood cows without having to really reduce our production. After all, a mama cow needs about 2 acres of pasture to live, so we’d have to free up space by reducing the number of steers we raise for beef. Last year we tried to expand our land base by leasing smaller, noncontiguous land near us. This involved hauling cattle to a different property every month or so, trucking water, and setting up temporary fencing. This opportunity to expand to the Shew property’s 115 acres of pasture means we can now run a “birth to butcher” operation in one centralized place. Better soils mean more beef! This also means we can increase beef production, as the soils have been so improved by the Shew’s managed grazing that they can support nearly twice the number of animals per acre as our Athens pastures. Pete told us that when they moved there in 1984, the organic matter of their soils was around 2-3%. In 2024, soil samples showed organic matter ranging from 4-6%! That is incredible improvement in soil health in a short amount of time. These productive soils will allow us to sustainably meet the growing demand for our grass-fed beef. More than anything, we are excited about the opportunity to invest in soils that have been improved for 42 years by sustainable grazing practices. That’s the best farm insurance policy we could ask for. We are honored to carry on the legacy of Pete & Marjie. We’ve got big Shews to fill.

The word that best defines 2025...

is community. And our community shows up in the pages of our newly released 2025 Annual Report — from photos of our events to this year’s Customers of the Year to our families who support our farming endeavors wholeheartedly.

Welcoming quiet & new life in the New Year

We’ve been absent from your inbox lately as the December holidays brought a flurry of travel and events to many of our lives. There’s something wonderful about January’s contrast to December, when the decorations come down and the weather gets colder and the world seems to stand a little more still. We are embracing this quieter pace of life, in a literal and figurative sense.