It's the How, Not the Cow!

written by

MoSo Farm

posted on

March 26, 2021

“Nature never tries to farm without animals.” - Sir. Albert Howard
sky-with-lowlines.jpeg


You can find messages everywhere you look that say plant-based diets will solve the climate crisis, you can also find proponents of eating meat to save the planet, and you can find individuals from both parties that have waged a vendetta against the other. I believe that food choices are contentious because we are what we eat. To attack someone's diet is to attack their very existence. I try to read widely and avoid proselytizing, so consider this simply my story of navigating our complicated food system.

I have been considering the environmental impact of my diet ever since I decided to become a vegetarian in college. The horror of industrial meat - from its fossil fuel emissions to its animal cruelty - was too obvious for me to ignore if I was to consider myself a conscientious consumer and compassionate person. Then I spent some time as an intern on Moonstone Farm in Montevideo, MN where I first encountered the idea that livestock have an important role to play in healthy ecosystems. Richard and Audrey taught me that if managed correctly, cattle can help take carbon out of the atmosphere and put it in the soil (aka carbon sequestration.)

It turns out that this country’s once rich soils were created by the symbiotic relationship between bison and grasslands. These large ruminants once roamed across the landscape grazing, leaving nutrients behind in the form of manure and urine, and trampling the soil with their hoofs to help bury seeds and create small pockets in the soil to capture water. Their grazing stimulated robust plant growth, creating deep roots to help the grass bring carbon in through its leaves and down into the soil. Because of the pressure from predators to keep moving, the bison never overgrazed an area but sometimes spent an entire year before returning to the same patch of grassland.

When Euro-Westerners began to eye the Great Plains as part of the imperialist project, they identified two major obstacles to claiming the land: Indigenous peoples and the buffalo. They systematically killed millions of bison and thereby wiped out a primary food source for Indigenous people. They also ruptured those vital ecosystem relationships between buffalo and grasslands. Regenerative graziers now raise livestock to mimic this symbiotic system, using management techniques like moving the herd daily to new paddocks, giving pastures ample rest time, avoiding overgrazing, and growing diverse forages.

I decided to raise grass-fed beef because of my fears for the climate. In the last 150 years, we have lost nearly half of our productive soils. In the U.S., soil on cropland is eroding 10 times faster than we can replace it. Our agricultural system is fundamentally (and dare I say, intentionally) broken. I believe regenerative grazing is essential to repairing it.

There are so many more aspects of this issue that I hope to address in future newsletters (check out some more resources linked below). In the meantime, I’ll leave you with this — whether you eat meat or choose not to, I encourage you to think less about which foods you should eat and more about how your foods are grown. One cow can have a damaging impact or a regenerative impact, depending on how she's raised. A field of soybeans is the same way. It’s the how, not the cow!

MoSo Jewelry

earrings.png

MoSo Jewelry recently had a shop update! I’m working with some new woods and I’m excited to share earrings made from oak, walnut, and striped pine. I also have a few more elegant bone earrings. Step into spring with some style. Take a look!

Curious to learn more about regenerative grazing?

Here are some podcasts, videos, and articles I’ve been reading lately. The Allan Savory Ted Talk below is a classic primer. Check them out and let me know what you think. I’m always down for that food systems talk!

Video: Ted Talk - “How to green the world’s deserts and reverse climate change

Podcast: Gastropod - “To Eat or Not to Eat Meat

Podcast: The Doctor’s Farmacy - “Why Eliminating Meat from Our Diet Isn’t the Solution to Climate Change

Article: Civil Eats - “A New Study on Regenerative Grazing Complicated Climate Optimism

What I’m reading…

It’s spring, I started a second job, I’m buying more calves, my 1800 sq ft garden is calling, and I’m trying to teach my dog how to hunt for morels. All of this to say, I’m reading the same stuff as last month!

What I’m listening to…

Check out my March Spotify playlist for some spring feels that’ll make you want to plant some seeds and dance in the garden.

More from the blog

Expanding to Greener Pastures

We’ve got some exciting news to share! We are transitioning into being the new owners of the Shew Family Farm. This winter, we have been discussing the possibilities of a farm transition — as Pete & Marjie sought to create a plan for retirement, in hopes that their farm could be stewarded in a similar manner, and as we sought to expand our beef operation on our current limited land base. With guidance from our Uncle Jon Sowash, we devised a land contract to purchase the farm over the next many years in installments. In December, we also purchased the Shew’s brood cows and young calves. It’s no small feat to pass a farm from one generation to the next, particularly when it’s not to children. According to the American Farmland Trust, 2,000 acres of farmland are lost to non-agricultural uses every day. This has been a full circle moment, as Pete has been a mentor to us for several years. When I first started our farm in 2020, I cold-called him to see if I could visit and learn from him. I remember visiting one day to learn about handling cattle and to “help” as Pete brought a few steers down to the barn and loaded them into the trailer for the butcher. Over lunch, Marjie shared how they weren’t sure who would take over the farm when they retired and remarked, “maybe you’ll buy this place one day!” My eyes grew wide and I laughed, thinking to myself — me?! I have no idea how to farm. What does this mean for us and the Shews? We will continue to live and farm here in Athens County where we’ll run our pastured pork operation. During the growing season, we will run the cattle at the Shew farm where we’ll have the space to increase the herd size and maintain a breeding operation for the first time. As winter approaches, we will bring the herd back to our Athens farm to graze stockpiled forages — reducing the amount of hay we need to feed and making winter chores easier. Pete & Marjie will continue living in their home. They will be raising their butcher-ready steers and selling beef at the Athens Farmers Market this season before retiring in the fall. We are grateful that they will be staying on the property and advising us, as we get to know the farm and continue to learn as first-generation farmers. How does this enable us to raise our own calves? Until now, we have been purchasing weaned calves in the spring from other grass-fed farms and raising them to butcher weight. But we are getting squeezed by the cattle market, making it difficult to run a profitable enterprise. In spring 2021, we were purchasing calves for $1.62/lb or $680 for a 420 lb animal. Right now, the average price for the same calves is $5.25/lb or $2,205. People have often asked us — why don’t we raise our own calves? But on just 50 acres of pasture that we lease from family, we don’t have the space to maintain a herd of brood cows without having to really reduce our production. After all, a mama cow needs about 2 acres of pasture to live, so we’d have to free up space by reducing the number of steers we raise for beef. Last year we tried to expand our land base by leasing smaller, noncontiguous land near us. This involved hauling cattle to a different property every month or so, trucking water, and setting up temporary fencing. This opportunity to expand to the Shew property’s 115 acres of pasture means we can now run a “birth to butcher” operation in one centralized place. Better soils mean more beef! This also means we can increase beef production, as the soils have been so improved by the Shew’s managed grazing that they can support nearly twice the number of animals per acre as our Athens pastures. Pete told us that when they moved there in 1984, the organic matter of their soils was around 2-3%. In 2024, soil samples showed organic matter ranging from 4-6%! That is incredible improvement in soil health in a short amount of time. These productive soils will allow us to sustainably meet the growing demand for our grass-fed beef. More than anything, we are excited about the opportunity to invest in soils that have been improved for 42 years by sustainable grazing practices. That’s the best farm insurance policy we could ask for. We are honored to carry on the legacy of Pete & Marjie. We’ve got big Shews to fill.

The word that best defines 2025...

is community. And our community shows up in the pages of our newly released 2025 Annual Report — from photos of our events to this year’s Customers of the Year to our families who support our farming endeavors wholeheartedly.

Welcoming quiet & new life in the New Year

We’ve been absent from your inbox lately as the December holidays brought a flurry of travel and events to many of our lives. There’s something wonderful about January’s contrast to December, when the decorations come down and the weather gets colder and the world seems to stand a little more still. We are embracing this quieter pace of life, in a literal and figurative sense.